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Garment Industry

Contents
History > Composition of the Garment Industry > Dressmaking > Dressmaking in the 1870s > Women's Fashions in the 1890s > Department Stores and Changing Fashion > Garment Industry in NYC Today > Garment Labeling > Sweatshops > Triangle Shirtwaist Factory > Sewing Machine

Garment Labeling

Consumers' League of New York City
The Consumers' League of New York City was formed in the 1890s as one of the first consumer groups to take an interest in problems of sweatshops. Most of the members were white middle-class women. Their objectives were to raise public and government awareness about the poor working conditions of sweatshops and the potential health threats to workers and consumers as a result of these conditions. They saw poor working conditions in tenement sweatshops as hazardous not only to the immigrants working in them, but also to the middle class consumers who purchased these products. The unsanitary conditions meant that middle-class consumers were at risk for buying clothing contaminated with disease. The Consumers' League pointed out that "to buy means to have power and to have power means to have duties", and urged consumers to take responsibility by only buying clothing made in safe and sanitary conditions. Labeling was instituted so that consumers could tell what products were made under favorable conditions. The National Consumers' League was formed in the late 1890s and still exists today.

"Made in the USA" Standards
Today, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is in charge of enforcing the "Made in the USA" standards for labeling products. The basic rule is that things marked or advertised as made in the US be "all or virtually all" made in America. That means that all significant parts, processing and labor that goes into the product must originate in the US. They can include only negligible amounts of foreign materials or labor. Textile, wool, fur products and automobile manufacturers are the only ones who must disclose US content of their products. The standard only applies to other industries if they want to make the claim that their products are "Made in the USA."
For most clothing and textile or wool household products, a "Made in the USA" label is required if the final product was manufactured in the US of fabric made in the US (it does not effect the claim of the yarn or fibers used to make the fabric originated somewhere else). If a garment is partially US-made and partially foreign-made, then the labeling must reflect that. There are guidelines as to where the label should be placed: if the garment has a neck, then it should the label should be placed there, otherwise it must be placed in another conspicuous place. Under the Buy American Act, all products for government procurement must be at least 50% made in the USA.


"Made in New York"
In the wake of the September 11 terrorist attacks, members of the apparel industry and elected officials worked together to create the "Made in New York" initiative. Many garment factories and retailers were damaged, closed or lost business as a result of the attacks. Apparel is the retail sector most adversely affected by the attacks, according to economists from Retail Forward, Inc. Retailers and manufacturers are being asked to buy from NY garment factories, and specially designed hangtags will be used to alert consumers to clothing made in New York:



During the last three months of 2001, more than 700,000 garments and accessories were produced in NYC and have the "Made in New York" hang tag. Millions more will be produced through 2002.



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