Garment Industry

The Sewing Machine
The Sewing Machine was first marketed in the United States, in July 1845 by Elias Howe (he would receive a patent for his machine in 1846). The sewing machine's invention took place simultaneously in both the United States, by Howe, and with the creation of similar versions in France and England. All of the machines' inventors believed that sewing could be mechanized in the same manner that weaving had.

Despite Howe's success in demonstrating the efficiency of his new sewing machine, which he proved by defeating Boston's best and fastest seamstresses in a public demonstration, national recognition and financial gain eluded him. Numerous factors weighed against Howe. Foremost was the machine's lack of durability; its needles constantly broke and it required constant maintenance and upkeep. Second was the price of Howe's sewing machine. Models put on the market in 1845 cost an exorbitant $300, which put the machine out of the price range of all but the wealthiest of individuals or tailors. Finally, Howe faced a skeptical and often acrimonious public opinion towards his machine. Many argued (incorrectly as it would turn out) that the sewing machine threatened the jobs of existing tailors and seamstresses and that its introduction would only lead to great unemployment.

In October 1850, Isaac Merritt Singer would receive a patent for a modified version of Howe's sewing machine. Singer, while keeping the basic design (so much so that Howe would successfully sue Singer for copyright violation), replaced the curved needle, which moved horizontally, with a straight needle that moved up and down. The straight needle was less likely to break and allowed for more agility on the part of the sewer. Most importantly, Singer was able to keep the price of his machine down and sell it for the expensive but profitable price of $125. Singer further improved the sewing machine by simplifying Howe's complex production process, which allowed him to make his machine immediately available to the consumer.

Singer's sewing machine brought with it a great degree of fanfare and a carnival-like atmosphere. (In fact, Singer fashioned himself a thespian first and an inventor second - he also admired P.T. Barnum and his innovative form of marketing his product.) Unlike Howe, who could not convince the public of his machine's worth, Singer vigorously took his show on the road. He toured all around the nation demonstrating the sewing machine and ensuring seamstresses that they would not be replaced by the new technology, only made more efficient. Singer also focused his attentions on the domestic uses of the sewing machine and realized the potential profit if he could convince the country that the machine was an essential item in each home.

Singer was successful. By 1856 the Singer Sewing Machine Company was manufacturing 2,564 machines a year. By 1860, that number had increased to 13,000. By 1885 nearly half of all American households had sewing machines. They ranged in price from $19.50 for Demorest's New Family Sewing Machine to $75 for a Wheeler and Wilson. The sewing machine, to this day, remains the most essential element to starting a shop in the garment industry. Although it has been modified to make it more efficient and durable, the sewing machine of the 1990s is remarkably similar to the sewing machine of the 1850s. The most dramatic changes have come in the power source of the machine, which has progressed from being manually powered to running on electricity.

The sewing machine on display in the Lower East Side Tenement Museum is a Wilcox and Gibbs. The Wilcox and Gibbs Company began selling sewing machines in 1858 that were significantly smaller and less expensive than Singer's version. A new Wilcox and Gibbs machine, purchased in 1869, would have cost $56, a price that included the built-in table.